Floor Tile Cutting — How to Achieve Angle Cuts on Floor Tiles With the Angle Grinder

Another effective method of cutting floor tiles by way of using a power tool has a hand held angle grinder. These are basically a powerful motor with a 90 degree angled gearbox attached to one end, to which a cutting or grinding compact disk is firmly attached. They come in a number of standard sizes which are modified to hold cutting cutting blades or cds from 4″ to 9″ in . in diameter, but for lightweight ease and agility for cutting tiles it is best to use the 4-1/2″ inch or 5″ inch model.

In comparison to the wet tile saw, they are a lot more dangerous to use and more difficult to handle when cutting tiles, but they can be much cheaper to buy and more convenient to manage, for guys working out in the field. The requirement for water is not required so they really are low maintenance, but they do create a terrible of a lot of dust when used to cut masonry products, therefore it is always far better use these in the well ventilated room, or better still, outdoors.

When using, safety equipment is a definite must. The cutting compact disk rotates way faster than the wet tile saw, so there is more chance of the blade throwing debris around, therefore eye protection is essential. They also create much more noise so ear muffs or ear attaches should be used without question, and as for the dust emissions you should wear a respirator or dust mask of some description. Although, this dust being made up of quite heavy allergens, almost everything of cloth draped around the nose and mouth will filter out the harmful particles just as effectively. Don’t ever wear your ‘Sunday vijayalakshmi wet grinder best’ clothing when using also, as after prolonged use there is a strong possibility you will appear to be ‘Casper the friendly ghost’.

There are mostly four common types of cds which you can stick to the angle grinder for various applications. Two types are used for when working with metals, such as an rough grinding compact disk for grinding, and an rough steel-cutting compact disk for cutting. Both are reasonably inexpensive, throw away, and wear down in size through constant use, but should never be taken for any other application other than metals, such as your tile transitions or subfloor nylon uppers.

When it comes to cutting floor tiles however, again there are two types of compact disk to choose from. Like the steel-cutting compact disk, there is also an rough stone-cutting compact disk which also displays the same properties, but truth be known this is also suitable for cutting steel, as it is constructed to deal with the hindrance of cutting re-bar when unconsciously embedded in concrete. Two drawbacks of these rough cds though, is that not only is it necessary to change them more often because they wear down in diameter through use, but the depth of cut cuts down as the diameter reduces in size.

To combat these factors, we then come to the most effective method of cutting floor tile and stone, which is the diamond cutting compact disk. These are more expensive than rough cds, but they lasts a more considerable amount of time longer. They are basically an appartment compact disk of durable steel construction with man-made diamond allergens encrusted into the outside diameter, and are perfect for cutting through masonry even when embedded with steel reinforced bar. They should however never be taken for cutting steel alone, as this can not only be extremely dangerous, it can also cause premature damage to the compact disk. As an additional bonus though, these cds can work with wet tiles and stone, whereas water and any rough carborundum throw away compact disk does certainly not mix well.

Once you have your choice of compact disk, you’ll want to attach it to your angle grinder. This is simply carried out with a single center locking enthusiast which is tightened by means of a special two-pin angle grinder wrench normally found to accompany the tool.

The compact disk sits over a thick collared machine which holds it central in place on the output the whole length, then is held firmly by another thick washer-type locking enthusiast which is tightened in a clockwise motion with the wrench. By pressing in a locking button attached to the gearbox, this prevents the the whole length from re-writing when tightening, but be careful not to over tense up as you may battle to remove at a later stage. Because the compact disk rotates in the same direction of the strings on the locking enthusiast, this actually self-tightens the enthusiast to some extent.

Another cautionary tip when attaching any compact disk is to make sure it does not wobble and is fixed firmly in place. This can be caused by either having the incorrect compact disk fitted to the grinder due to the hub hole not resting on the collared machine correctly, or the locking enthusiast has been attached the wrong manner round. It can be screwed on both ways, and has an increasing shoulder on one side which will be facing out when attaching cutting cds, but inwards with thicker grinding cds, so look for your setup before running up to begin cutting, otherwise expect a dangerous and sudden disintegration of your compact disk.

One final and extremely important safety tip when changing cutting blades on your angle grinder is to ALWAYS eliminate the power supply. Never leave the tool connected to the outlet when swapping cds, as you accidentally first turn on the equipment during changing, you could be looking at serious injury to both hands, or even an angle grinder wrench thrown in the face at speed.

To avoid this unfortunate issue from ever happening, one easy tip is to attach the angle grinder wrench to the end of the power tool power cord near the plug using a plastic cable tie or similar. That way you’ll find that you have to eliminate the plug from the outlet which causes the area actually use the wrench. It’s the simplest of things that can save on a lot of unnecessary suffering, and that rule of maintenance should affect ALL electrical appliances regardless, to your own safety.

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